Often when I go into any bar lately the first thing I admire are the bottles that have hand written labels on them. It's a good indicator that the bar team has been making something interesting.
Most often seen (beyond the usual spirit infusions) are either bitters, tinctures and shrubs. Shrubs, also described as drinking vinegars, have been around since colonial times as a way of preserving the best of what the harvest had to offer. They can be used in cocktails to add depth and interesting flavour profiles.
Made using any number of fruits, vegetables or herbs, shrubs are produced by macerating the products in a combination of sugar and vinegar. Which sugar and vinegar one uses is up to the taste profile you want to achieve.
The result is a sweet, yet tart, concoction, that can be refreshing as well as complex.
Michael Mooney, bar manager of Parkdale's The Geraldine, has been creating a fascinating and interesting list since the space opened last August. He uses a classical approach, but focuses the bar on creating all sorts of complementary ingredients (whilst also fanatically collecting absinthe). Instead of using vinegar when making his pear shrub, Michael takes a locavore approach: he macerates the pears in verjus.
Verjus is the juice from unripe grapes that are taken from the vines before the harvest.
The result is a tart apple-and-grape like juice that seems to suck every ounce of flavour from the fruit. In this case, making the best tasting pear syrup I have had.
He starts by adding 4oz of Featherstone 12 brix verjus, 2oz of water, ¼ cup of sugar, and ½ teaspoon of salt to a boil. In the meantime he cuts up ½ pint of bosc or bartlett pears. The resultant solution (and 2 bay leaves) is poured over the pears. He allows the flavours to absorb and the liquid to cool. The solids are strained out and the result is bottled.
Another facet to the drink that is also made in-house is the vanilla allspice dram - a variation of the St. Elizabeth or pimento dram. It's traditionally made using Jamaican rum and the berry of the pimento tree (that encompasses the flavours of cinnamon, clove and nutmeg). It became popular in North America during the Tiki craze in the 40's and 50's.
Michael makes his using overproof Wray and Nephew Jamaican rum, allspice berries, black peppercorns, cinnamon and nutmeg, as well as madagascar vanilla pods.
Tequila Tromba, lime juice, pear shrub, and the vanilla allspice dram are all shaken over ice before being strained into a ice filled rocks glass and garnished with slices of fresh pear and a sprig of rosemary. The end result is a spicy, yet refreshing, cocktail with great pear flavour, great for winter. (Also use the dram for an island like drink in the warmer months.)
The cocktail list at the Geraldine changes seasonally, with real precision and thought going into each drink. The list even has a little story and a glimpse into what was being thought of at the time of it's conception. I'm very much looking forward to what the spring and summer will bring.
The Fountain
2oz of Tequila Tromba
1oz of Pear Shrub
1/2oz lime juice
¼ oz of Vanilla allspice dram
Pear Shrub
4oz of Featherstone Winery 12 brix verjus
2oz of water
¼ cup of sugar
½ pint of pears
2 bay leaves
Vanilla allspice dram
Overproof rum
Allspice berries
black peppercorns
Cinnamon sticks
Nutmeg
Madagascar vanilla pods
amounts vary according to taste.
Place all ingredients in a jar, allow to steep for 12-14 days. Shaking ingredients everyday.
Strain out the spices with a cheese cloth and add a simple syrup to the infused rum. Allow mixture to settle over night. Store at room temperature for up to 2 months.
Photos by Jesse Milns
by Jen Hunter via blogTO
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