How to spend a day in Kensington Market and Chinatown

Kensington Market and Chinatown are two of Toronto's most vibrant and diverse neighbourhoods and while each boasts its own unique character, being located in near proximity makes them opportune neighbourhoods to explore in tandem.

A common thread between these two areas is how each has resisted (and in some cases, fiercely protected against) the march of "progress" that has seemingly touched almost every other corner of this city. Both neighbourhoods are home to an eclectic mix of long-established retail shops, cafes, watering holes and restaurants joined by young guns that for the most part, aspire to fit in with the local vernacular.

Here's how to spend a day in Kensington and Chinatown, from morning until late night.

BREAKFAST AND COFFEE

While Kensington and Chinatown are bustling almost every other time of day or night, mornings are relatively quiet and populated mostly by residents fetching coffees or produce (the few types of businesses to get an early start). No nonsense breakfasts are plentiful, offered by KOS, Our Spot or Kensington's, though I tend to gravitate to unassuming Average Joe's where seating is just as limited as the menu but the quality and care put into the two egg breakfasts is top notch.

When I'm not in the mood for eggs I head to NuBugel for hot-from the wood-fire oven bagels, or Fika for Swedish-inspired fare like open faced sandwiches on rye with smoked salmon and creme fraiche with chives, radish and cucumbers.

When it comes to coffee, I'm spoiled for choice. Discerning coffee drinkers will find what they want at Jimmy's, I Deal or Cafe Pamenar, though I'd argue that patio seating positioned with prime views for people watching (like at Casa Acoreana) should play into any decision.

MORNING ACTIVITY

Milk that cup of coffee as long as you can because mornings in this part of town are sleepy and you'll find that stores open at their own pace and not reliably until at least 11am. Make the most of the slow start by meandering through Chinatown checking out bric brac at stores like B And J Trading Co or picking up that hard-to-find can of curry paste at Hua Sheng Supermarket. The srtetch of Kensington Ave. north of Dundas comes alive just before lunch when various vintage shops like Courage My Love and Flashback open for business.

LUNCH

There are a couple ways to approach lunch-time in Kensington Market, each with its own merits.

Assembling a lunch from various vendors is great way to discover each shop's specialty and for me, often entails focaccia from Blackbird, a ball of burrata from Global, white anchovies from Hooked, pickles from Thomas Lavers and some tomatoes or figs from wherever they look good.

You'll also find a number of made-to-order street foods, and my top picks include the pupusas at Emporium Latino, blackened mahi mahi tacos from Seven Lives, or the fried chicken sandwich from the lunch counter at Sanagan's (sometimes it's tandoori-spiced covered with Bombay mix, other times it's tossed in Korean hot sauce with kimchi, or, done like schnitzel with braised cabbage. Regardless it's always delicious).

SHOPPING AND CULTURE

If you've exhausted the vintage stores on Kensington Avenue be sure to explore Augusta in the afternoon. Here you'll find Good Egg, a cookbook-centric store, as well as locally designed goods from Fresh Collective, Kid Icarus and Model Citizen.

Envious of the local talent? Try learning a new skill at Lettuce Knit where they offer workshops on knitting and crocheting, or at Kid Icarus or Model Citizen where you can sign-up in advance for screen printing 101 workshops.

On a rainy day, I like to cozy in at Castle Board Games Cafe on Spadina or get competitive at Breakout, a 45 minute "escape room" adventure. Another option (and one I can promise will be a totally singular experience) is to see a collection of obscure short films at the Cineforum on Bathurst south of College, just be warned: you will be sitting in the front room of Reg Hart's home and it's BYOB.

MID-AFTERNOON SNACK

For a quick nosh in the market I like Jumbo Empanadas, not necessarily because their empanadas are better than elsewhere (the dulce ones across the street at Segovia are good too) but because they make the best salsa I've ever tried. They kind of hoard it, so take my advice; order a couple empanadas, and then only after they've put the complimentary side salsas in the bag order an extra salsa to go too.

Sweet tooths should check out Wanda's (pies), Bunner's (vegan baked goods) or Millie Creperie (Japanese desserts), or just stop in at the Toronto Popcorn Co. for some serious sampling opportunities.

DINNER

If you've done things as recommended this will be your first opportunity to sit down in a proper restaurant all day. Try Pizzeria Via Mercanti if you're craving hearty Italian fare or El Trompo for Mexican flavours from the grill. For something a little upmarket opt for Le Kensington Bistro or Torito Tapas Bar, both of which are excellent date-night destinations.

DRINKS & ENTERTAINMENT

There are plenty of places to grab a drink in the area but my favourite for cocktails is Cold Tea tucked away at the end of the decrepit alley known as Kensington Mall. Beer drinkers will find what they're looking for at the Embassy, Ronnie's or Handlebar, while live music and/or dancing is usually the main attraction at Detour Bar, Graffiti's and The Boat.

LATE NIGHT EATS

While the rest of the city sleeps, Chinatown is still bustling. Here you'll find People's Eatery serving up snack foods until last call, and after hours you'll find a bevy of Chinese restaurants open until 5am. Help me resolve which is better; Taste of China (where daily specials and General Tso chicken excel) or Swatow across the street (where shrimp wonton soup is unbelievably awesome).

What did I miss? Add your suggestions for how to spend a day in Kensington Market and Chinatown to the comments.

by Liora Ipsum via blogTO